3D Print: Dead Space Helmet
Any self respecting Dead Space fan should know 2 of the main key points to surviving a necromorph outbreak
Cut off their limbs!!!
Any self respecting Dead Space fan should know 2 of the main key points to surviving a necromorph outbreak. Cut off their limbs, and having a decent rig for protection.
A friend of mine who has who happens to a pretty big Dead Space Fan had a big birthday coming up. So I decided to try and put some of my years of self-taught 3D modelling skills to use and make him something for his birthday (I figured a render of something from Dead Space that could then be printed out as a poster). Whilst I was deciding on what to model and render, I was shown the Shapeways website and discovered the world of 3D printing. Everything from there then fell into place and I came up with this idea. A miniature USB powered Dead Space rig helmet.
Make the 3D model fileOnce you've read a little on 3D printing, the first starting point is pretty obvious. Make the 3D model. I gathered lots of reference images, booted up the game on the console (so I could try and see some first hand source material) and began making the actual model in my choice of 3D modelling packages; Modo.
When creating the 3D model for 3D printing, there's a few rules you need to follow that you don't necessarily need to follow if the model is staying in a digital form (e.g. as a render or animation). You need to ensure the model is "watertight" and has no "non-manifold" edges. You also need to take a look at the specification for the material you're intending on printing in (there's lots of options out there) to ensure you're not making anything smaller than the material allows, have minimum wall thickness etc... Also think about if you want it in lots of pieces for any reason (e.g. makes it easier to paint or modify in post).
(When making a model for 3D printing, there's no actual relevance for materials unless you're going for a multi coloured print; in this project I wasn't. I always just apply materials to get a basic idea of what it's looking like)
Now that the model has been finished I converted the file to an STL format and uploaded it to Shapeways. For this I used NetFabb that allows you to convert the file, scale it, work out volume, fix/identify any issues in your mesh. The great thing about Shapeways website is once you've uploaded it, within about 5-20 minutes you can see the the cost of the item (it sometimes takes up to 20 minutes as their system needs to calculate the volume of your model and run some checks).
Post process after printingOnce the order was placed, Shapeways printed the parts and sent them to me.
(Here's a shot of the parts straight out of the box. I temporarily blu-tacked things together just to see everything printed ok and to get an idea if anything needed any modifying. Luckily nothing did!)
Next I superglued everything together and painted the model with some Humbrol enamel paint. Using dry brushing, I tried to give it a copper / weathered look.
Next, I took an old USB cable (I generally have dozens of spares as they come with electricals all the time), I cut off one end and made a basic LED circuit. The idea of using a USB cable was so I didn't have to worry about batteries running out/leaking. I also mounted the Helmet onto a base.
The finished product!The finished product stands about 8.5cm tall and as it's powered by an LED, should be good for 50,000 hours! Just about enough time to clear out the Ishimura.
(Here's a shot of it plugged in next to a coke can for an idea of scale)
(Of course, I can't leave out a picture of it all lit up in the dark!)
Thanks for reading, hopefully it was useful to someone and you found it interesting. I look forward to getting my next two 3D print projects posted up! For now, I'm going to sleep, it's 1am right now!